Wendy Ide 

Papicha review – female friendship and resistance in 90s Algeria

Fashion is a form of protest in this shimmering semi-autobiographical tale following a design student and friends during the country’s civil war
  
  

Shirine Boutella, Amira Hilda Douaouda and Lyna Khoudri in Papicha (2019.
Shirine Boutella, Amira Hilda Douaouda and Lyna Khoudri in Papicha (2019. Photograph: Lifestyle pictures/Alamy Stock Photo

For Nedjma (Lyna Khoudri, magnetic), fashion is political. A design student in 1990s Algiers, she clings to what she considers to be her rights – the choice to dress as she wishes, to leave her hair uncovered, to dance and flirt in underground clubs – even as sections of Algerian society insist that young women like her should be neither seen nor heard. The building of a wall around her all-female university dormitory takes on a symbolic resonance: those who choose not to wear the traditional veil or “haik” will be covered up, one way or another. But when the slow-burning fuse of the Algerian civil war ignites, and blood is spilled, Nedjma is inspired to use the haik as the basis for a fashion show. Like the denim jacket in Marjane Satrapi’s Persepolis, Nedjma’s dresses are a form of protest.

Mounia Meddour’s feature debut is loosely based on her own experiences. Shot in the shimmering, saturated colour palette of a teenager’s eyeshadow cache, the film uses a jostling, intimate camera that places us in Nedjma’s feisty inner circle. While the final act frays a little, the sparking tensions of female friendship are vivid and persuasive.

In selected cinemas and available to stream on Curzon Home Cinema, BFI Player and Peccadillo Player

Watch a trailer for Papicha
 

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